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Does
it seem like we should be in the 5th month of 2025 already!? A
rainyish April, hopefully will bring May flowers and sends!! The classes happened, but only because of flexible instructors and students. Yeah, we had to really adapt and improvise. Our first beginner gym to crag class was held under a roofed picnic area, as rain eventually did fall, and bones were chilled. Brrr! But, we got the course essentials/groundwork to the students. The second class unfolded over 3 different days, depending on whom was available to do what, and when. The intermediate gym to crag started off with a great Saturday of weather(while some of us were completing beginner class 2). The second intermediate class was affected by rain too, but moving it to Sunday, and crossing our fingers, got it done. It sometimes takes a village, and we had the right people ready to make it all happen. Thanks to ALL for that. I’m really happy with the way the Intermediate class turned out, for a number of reasons, most falling on Rich and Kevin’s call and responsibility. May is also a busy month, and many of us will be doing more and more of our own climbing…if we can keep up with Brian’s ability to put up routes. A ‘small’ thing…’micro trash’. Examples like a bottle top, a piece of climbers tape, or a small piece of paper/trash. These are often overlooked, but also present at the base of climbing areas. IF we can have(carry) a small bag(something from a recent shopping trip, or even an animal waste bag) with us, we can pick these less significant pieces of waste up, and carry them out. Small, but cumulatively…they can make a big impact. Consider adding something to your climbing backpack. If anyone would like to contribute to this monthly newsletter please email your contribution to risouthcounty@gmail.com or bikeskiboy@hotmail.com. Contribution needs to be 200 words or less to fit in this newsletter format. A photo is helpful as well but not necessary. |
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2025
AMC Narragansett Climbing Trip/Event Schedule This is a synopsis of the upcoming AMC trips/events. See the link above for details. Trip announcements go out about a month before any trip date! The trips are all focused on multi-pitch trad and ice, except for the Rumney trip, which is sport climbing focused. 2025 Trip Classes, and Events
Schedule |
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Brian's Gear Recommendation of the Month: The Oh Shit Biner At some point in your climbing career you will have an epic, an oh shit moment. To be prepared for that you want to have the right equipment on your harness to deal with the unexpected. I call it my oh shit biner. On that biner you should have a loop of cord to make a Prusik (in addition to the loop you carry for rappelling), a couple of rap rings, a whistle (three short blasts is the universal distress signal), and a serrated blade knife. (Make sure the knife is taped closed so it can't open in a fall.) |
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Climbing
Bio by Ronnie Schroeder: Louis Lachenal 1921-1955t Louis Lachenal (pronounced ‘Loshenal’) was a famous French climber in his day. On June 3, 1950, he was the first to reach the summit of Annapurna I in Nepal at a height of 26,545 feet. Previously, in 1947, he made the second ascent of the North Face of the Eiger. Annapurna earned him great glory. The 23,419 foot Lachenal Peak (Gangapurna West) in the region around Annapurna, bears his name. But Annapurna caused the amputation of both frozen feet. Even then, he persisted with bold ascents. In one day, he climbed three exceedingly difficult routes, the East Crocodile ridge, the east face of Caïman, and the Ryan au Plan route. After five years of heroic effort, in 1955, a crevasse brutally stopped his journey, when he fell into a deep crevasse skiing near Chamonix, France and died of his injuries when 34 years old. The mountain, Pointe Lachenal, in the Mont Blanc massif is named after him. He was called “The Star That Fell to Earth”. I feel a distant kinship to Lachenal because he died the year I was born and his great grandfather’s company (also Louis Lachenal) built my English concertina in 1897, and it bears his name. |
 Peter Barlow coming up pitch 10 on Ha Ling Peak in 2007 | Brian's Destination of the Month: Bow Valley, Alberta, Canada Ran out of local crags of the month so we are adventuring farther afield. If you are looking for a summer climbing destination that has relatively easy logistics to get to and climb, the Bow Valley and nearby Banff National Park fit the bill. The Bow Valley in Alberta is a short 1 1/2 hour drive from the airport in Calgary and has a ton of lodging options as it at the entrance to the Banff National Park where you have even more climbing options. Stay in Canmore instead of the more expensive Banff. Climbing there covers all types: sport, trad, and alpine. The sport climbing is everything from single pitch cragging at such spectacular areas as Lake Louise, low commitment crags like Kid Goat, to 21 pitch sport routes like Sisyphus Summits. There are thousands of trad routes on famous cliffs like Yamnuska, and the East End of Rundle. If you are looking at a fun cruise there is a 12 pitch 5.6 on Ha Ling Peak. There has been lots of long multi-pitch sport routes put up since I was last there in 2007. Another option is to drive 120 miles west and combine it with a trip to the Bugaboos in British Columbia although the logistics at the Bugs is considerably more complicated and committing. If you are contemplating a trip there and want recommendations on lodging, climbing, etc. email me. |
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Ken's
Training Tips Two recent lessons I’ve learned, and trust me when I say…I’m ALWAYS learning more. Even if it’s what NOT to do. First…I LOVE to train, whether it’s casual, or intense. When at the gym, I think of more to do, not less. Fortunately, my lifestyle(and my GF) allows for this to occur. HOWEVER, when can a lot, be too much? One example, when you get in a cycle of illness, like I did. Get sick, be sick, slowly recover, get back to regular workout load, a few weeks go by and get sick again, and repeat the cycle. After a few times, something’s a miss! I had to consciously dial it back. Look at my volume of training, my associated rest, and the results. What I’ve determined is…make sure I am FULLY recovered before another workout. Sleep, not just on weekends, but daily, needs to be prioritized! Maybe life gets in your way too!? When my fitness watch says I’m tired, I need to pay attention to that, and not just blow it off. At a minimum, it’s a biological indicator. My watch doesn’t know everything about me, it only knows if I’m prepared for ‘fitness battle’, or not. Heed the data available, and REALLY listen to your body, for optimal health and results. To bed earlier, and more true rest days was my ultimate conclusion. Second. Variety is often termed the spice of life. I know that can be true in climbing. I am associated with a host of area gyms, and they all provide me with a different experience. That variety I think broadens my ‘climbing intelligence’. Carabiners in New Bedford is known for a style of challenging climbs…boulder or rope. Often, as the grades go up, the foot holds don’t get smaller, they go away. The features are routinely relied on there. When you’re below the national average in height…the moves often feel reachy, no matter what the grade. That teaches a climber to be resourceful. The new Boulder Union in New Bedford has ‘comp style’ settings. This means often holds you’re less accustomed to seeing, and using. Lots of dynamic movement, with some static options, IF you can figure them out. You almost literally have to try every problem, because it’s rarely clear how one will be. The hard can look easy, and conversely, the easy(er) can look hard. Rock Spot, often has solid, challenging settings, their bouldering is often hard and requires I go down a grade or so. Ropes are no gimme either. CRG Warwick has a reputation for being more moderate, but…as the grades go up, lots of crimping in the setting style. Point is, no matter what gym you choose, they have something challenging for you. When you have a chance…try out new gyms(even different CRG facilities). If not a member, usually a day pass is not that expensive, and the variety of experience just might jog your enthusiasm, as you try new holds, new setting, and a new environment! Finally: Keep in mind. You don’t get stronger by JUST ‘working out’ hard! That is only step 1! You actually get stronger when those muscles/tendons you’ve stressed have time to recover, and grow stronger. If you cheat them out of that recovery time, you’re cheating yourself. Hydration: Everyone, at least in general, knows the importance of proper hydration. I just read this, to put it in real terms: Drinking more/enough water can be a small important step towards better hydration. Did you know that staying hydrated, can improve brain function, boost metabolism, and even enhance mood? Research shows that even mild dehydration can cause fatigue and reduce cognitive performance. A study from the University of Connecticut found that even a 1.5% loss in normal water volume, can negatively affect energy levels and focus. Something to keep in mind! Have you ever been on a multi-pitch climb where you felt like you drank enough, or even an excess of, water? Now that we hope to be outside more, be prepared. Technique reminder: I imagine most of us know to try and limit our use of(waste) energy while climbing, and especially when it comes to our arms, our most important link to the wall(with our hands), but also our weakest. Simple…create a rhythm of movement up the wall, which can(and should) come from your hips and feet. Save the big strong moves for when there is little to no other option, and smooth out/initiate the movement from your legs and hips. When you can, rest/hang(straight arm) and shake out. From Strongmind.climbing: “I’ve been thinking about the stories we tell ourselves - how they shape who we believe we are. But what if those stories are outdated? A few years ago, I realized I was still calling myself a “fearful climber” long after my mindset had evolved. That old narrative wasn’t just untrue - it was holding me back. Our identity isn’t fixed. We can rewrite our stories by shifting how we talk to ourselves: Spot limiting beliefs in your self-talk (“I’m just bad at slabs” to “I’m improving on slabs.”) Reframe setbacks as learning, not failure.Align your habits with the climber you want to become What’s a story about yourself that you’re ready to rewrite?” This is a good/important mantra to have and follow. Our inner dialogue can greatly contribute to, and even frame, the person we believe we are, so therefore the person we’re likely to be in our daily actions. Make sure your sense of self is positive and uplifting/hopeful, not negative. |
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Rock
Gym Deals for AMC Members If you're new to our chapter or new to a local Rhode Island rock gym let the gym personnel know you're an AMC Narragansett member and most will extend you a discount on membership. For gyms like Rock Spot and CRG, that have multiple locations, that opens up day trips to new gyms, at no additional cost (but driving and time). Great for the gym season, if you want to try new routes, new holds, and new setters. |
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Join
the ClimbRI email group Most communication among RI climbers (including the AMC) is done through a Google Group called ClimbRI. There are currently just over 400 climbers in the group from RI, CT, and MA. |