Ross Rocks

Directions
From Providence and points east take Rt 6 west. It is 27 miles/42 min from Providence.  After crossing the Connecticut border go about 3 miles and take a right exit at the bottom of a hill where there are two large billboards. Immediately take the first left then left again on Wescott Road. At the end of the road take a right on South Frontage Road.  Go about a half mile and take a left on Ross Road. Go four tenths of a mile and take another right down a poorly paved road. You will see a Ross Pond State Park sign. Go about a half mile to the parking lot at the pond. The cliffs are up the hill in front of you starting at the parking lot wall and going north.  In the winter the Ross Road entrance may be gated shut and you have to hike in from the Old Furnace State Park entrance.  See the Ice page for the winter trail map.  



Description

Rhode Island like its diminutive size has little boulders with very little climbing that involves more than a half dozen moves from sitting on the ground.  Few people realize that four and a half miles over the Rhode Island border in Killingly Connecticut there are 85-foot cliffs.  Here lies Ross Rocks which many of the locals jokingly refer to as a Rhode Island crag located in Connecticut.  Also called Ross Pond, it is 40 minutes from Providence and due to its proximity is mostly frequented by Rhode Island climbers. 

The cliff has a long climbing history. The AMC reportedly climbed here in the 1950s and 60s as evidenced by the ring pitons on some of the routes that were probably aid climbed. There is no conclusive information as to who first climbed many of the obvious popular lines although the previously unprotectable, harder, obscure, and trundled routes are probably legitimately claimed first ascents.  All First Ascents (FA) refers to a route that has been led ground-up no falls or takes unless otherwise noted as a top-rope (TR) ascent.  A system denoting quality of one to three stars is used.  

The cliffs range from 30 to 85 feet in height and in total are about a quarter mile long. There are five main areas: the Parking Lot Wall, the Party Wall which is easily identified by its large roof, the Roof Wall, the Orange (AKA Big Wall) which is the tallest at 85 feet high, and the North End which is a series of cliffs that has some good trad leads like Disneyworld 5.7+ and Hand To Hand Combat 5.10-. 

Almost all routes can easily be top-roped and many of the routes can be led with adequate protection. If you go to Ross Rocks to top-rope all you need is a 100 ft length of static rope or lots of long webbing to set up many of the climbs.  If you are leading you will need a single trad rack although doubles in some sizes are recommended in the route descriptions below. There is SuperTopo like gear beta on some of the more popular routes  at the end of this document. If you don't like beta don't go there.  Leading is possible here on a good number of climbs but beware of rock quality on some of the climbs. The grades of the routes range from 5.5 to 5.12 and the grading is, like the rest of Connecticut, stiff.  Some of the routes here are over-hanging and you may be placing gear while hanging off one hand so be comfortable leading at the grade.  Examples of stiff leads for the grade are The Good Book 5.9+ around the corner from the Parking Lot Wall and Devil’s Lettuce 5.8 on the Party Wall. 

David Fasulo's 2015 guidebook Rock Climbing Connecticut describes Ross Rocks. Although this website has the most current and complete information on the area. Many of the routes here were unnamed and were given names by David Fasulo in his guidebook to give them a point of reference. 

Ross Rocks also has some decent ice climbing that sets up in the corner of the Orange Wall.  It is an 85-foot ice climb and depending on the amount of ice and how it sets up ranges from WI-3 to WI-5.  However, conditions must be right for it to be in and some years the ice never comes in.  See the section ice climbing for details.

Below are photos/topos of the most commonly done routes at Ross Rocks and route descriptions.

Overview



Green trails are hiker trails and red are climber trails. There is an outstanding on-going initiative by the Appalachian Mountain Club Narragansett Chapter Climbing Committee to improve the climber's trails at Ross Rocks. This benefits all of us so when accessing the cliff please stay on all designated trails to prevent erosion and ensure continued good relations with Park management. 

Parking Lot Wall

 
 Green-Quick Step 5.5. Orange-Fancy Footwork 5.10.  Blue-Finger Tricks, 5.12. Red-Slippery When Wet, 5.8. Orange-Tincture of Benzoin, 5.9. Yellow-Laughing Man, 5.9+. Green-Double Mantel 5.7

Parking Lot Wall (Left to Right)

Quick Step 5.5. Good beginner lead. Start at right of block and follow discontinuous crack on left side of wall. Surmount a small overhang and on to the top. 
Fancy Footwork, 5.10. Just to the right of the Quick Step crack go up on thin flakes.  The crack or anything left of it is off.
Finger Tricks, 5.12.  A key foot hold broke off this climb a few years ago going from a 5.11a to a 5.12.  Go up a thin balance face left of the Slippery When Wet crack to a great horizontal.  Then smear, lie-back, grovel through the crux.
Slippery When Wet**, 5.8.  The obvious crack in the middle of the Parking Lot Wall.  Climb it without using the horizontal to the left or any face holds.  Gym climbers beware, a true hands crack climb. Good gear.
Tincture of Benzoin*, 5.9.  Go up just right of right facing corner heading for obvious horizontal.  Make thin moves on crimps and high step to gain a jug and mantel.
Yellow-Laughing Man, 5.9+.  Seldom done line between Benzion and the corner.
Double Mantel 5.7. Start on right side under a small overhang and bump to a ledge and mantel that.  Move right mantel another ledge and wander left on thin moves for a 5.7 to the top.

Geometric Wall
(around the corner from the Parking Lot Wall)


Red-Crack of Despair 5.10+. Green-Ross Crack 5.8+. Yellow-Metron 5.11. Orange-Hard Book 5.9 (Green-Good Book variation 5.8+)


Slim Pickins 5.10 (small crag about 300 feet north of Parking Lot Wall)

Geometric Wall (Left to Right)

Crack of Despair 5.10+.  Around the corner from the Parking Lot wall is a tree with an obvious crack behind it.  This is harder than it looks.  This may have been damaged maliciously (according to Ken Nichols who climbs it frequently). Don't take your anger out against individuals on the routes. We all climb there.
Ross Crack 5.8+.
Metron 5.11. A seldom done line to the left of the Hard Book.
Hard Book*** 5.9.  Fun layback, under-cling up the blocky corner and traverse left to join Metron at 5.9.  Harder when damp. A less interesting variation (Good Book 5.8+) goes up to the right instead of traversing left.
Slim Pickins 5.10. TR Olya Mandelshtam, Nov 2020. This is on a small crag about 300 feet north of the Parking Lot Wall with one route on it.  

Party Wall



Brian Phillips leading the Ross Rocks classic Devil's Lettuce.
(Photo by David Fasulo) 

Climbers on La Losa and Devil's Lettuce

Yellow-Mud Sweat and Fears 5.9-. Red-La Losa 5.8. Blue-Bed Spins 5.5. Red-Devil's Lettuce 5.8 (Pink-variation). Orange-Pussy Wall (AKA Panty Raid) 5.9. Light Blue-Almost Heaven 5.8+. Yellow-Thumper 5.7. Green-Topside 5.7


Right End of Party Wall
Yellow-Gneiss and Chossy 5.9. Green-Unamed Crack 5.7. Red-Freshly Roasted 5.7

Party Wall (Left to Right)

Mud, Sweat and Fears* 5.9-. FA Dave Curry, June 2015. Takes good gear.
La Losa** 5.8. FA Brian Phillips, May 2012. Goes up the slab on the left.
Bed Spins 5.5. A grungy corner that is sometimes done as an easy lead.
Devil's Lettuce*** 5.8  A Ross Pond classic.  Follow blocky right facing corner to overhang.  Pull overhang and layback in dihedral to a stance then skirt roof to the left and up. Good lead if you are competent on placing gear while hanging off one arm.  Gear beta below.  There are some very old pitons on this climb that suggested it was climbed in the 70s or before. It was named Devil's Lettuce, an old time reference to marijuana, by David Fasulo due to the pot smokers who sit on top of the overlook. Pink is a variation at the same grade that traverses in above the overhang.
Pussy Wall *(AKA Panty Raid) 5.9. This is a line to the right Devil's Lettuce that traverses right then goes up through overhanging rock.  Be careful off loose rock. It got its name from the graffiti on the route.  It was renamed in the CT guidebook.
Almost Heaven 5.8+, FA Brian Phillips, Dec 2023.
Thumper* 5.7. On the right side of the Party Wall is a pumpy 5.7 that goes up the left crack.  Every move is 5.7 but it feels like a 5.8.
Topside 5.7+. Just to the right of the 5.6 crack is another discontinuous crack that is about a half grade harder due to a harder start.
Gneiss and Chossy 5.9. FA Brian Phillips August 2023. The wall in the vicinity of this line has been top-roped before but never led due to the lack of protection and rock quality. Lots of trundling occurred before the FA was possible.  Steep and pumpy.
Unamed Crack 5.7. On the right end of the Party Wall is a crack that takes gear.
Freshly Roasted 5.7. FA Jen Chmiel, Sep 2022. A fun jug haul on in-cut edges up a steep face.

Roof Wall
(Access it by scrambling up left of Table Rock)
Red-Joe's Memorial 5.8. Blue-Brian's Hard One 5.11. Green- Brian's Not So Hard One 5.10a/d (height dependent). Orange-Chris' Minefield 5.9+ (Var. Red- Drew's Direct 5.10. Yellow-Bill's Retreat 5.6. Blue-Dave's Triple Delight 5.10. Green-Lynn's Happy Dance 5.8- (Var. Yellow Lynn's No-Drag variation 5.8+). Purple-Worth No Name Corner 5.10


Ken Hamel on Brian's Hard One
(Photo by Dave Curry)
Lynn Shippee on Lynn's Happy Dance
(Photo by Doug Sabetti).

Roof Wall (Left to Right)

Joe's Memorial* 5.8, FA Brian Phillips, 1999. A tribute to Joe Goudreau (1962-2012) who talked me into leading it. It would get three stars if it was a bit longer. You want .5 and .75 Camalot or equivalent..
Brian's Hard One** 5.11 PG-13, FA Brian Phillips Jun 2021.
Brian's Not So Hard One** 5.10a/d (height dependent) FA Brian Phillips Apr 2022.
Chris' Minefield** 5.9+, TR Chris Mydosh Sep 2020, FA Brian Phillips Jul 2021. Multiple detached blocks were trundled altering the original route. The variation Drew's Direct 5.10 (FA Drew Lombardi Aug 2022) goes straight up the arete with an exciting reach around to the face on the left before joining the route to the top.
Bill's Retreat 5.6, FA Brian Phillips, 2005. First led this to clean a bunch of gear for a new climber who led it half way up and decided to come down. Mostly 5.3 climbing.  Caution: There are some detached blocks at the bottom.  I stand on them but I wouldn't pull out on them or place gear behind them.  There is a solid placment of a .5 Camalot 15 feet or so up that you will find if you are experienced at placing gear. The crux at the top can be protected with two cams side by side.  
Dave's Triple Delight*** 5.10, FA Dave Schlenz, Jun 2021. Three distinct cruxes through overhangs.
Lynn's Happy Dance** 5.8-, FA Brian Phillips, Sep 2020. Watch rope drag and rope placement if top-roping. Recommend extended sling under the corner. The variation Lynn's No Drag 5.8+ was added to give a straight up option that avoids the rope drag around the fun overhang.
Worth No Name Corner 5.10, TR Brian Phillips, Oct 2021

Table Rock


La Mesa, 5.9
La Mesa cover photo Rock and Ice April 2013.
(Photo by Christopher Beauchamp)

Table Rock

La Mesa***, 5.9.  FA Brian Phillips Oct 2009. The fun face climb wanders up the face and angles up to a ledge on the left side of the spire.  From here face out (exciting), turn the corner and hand traverse under the overhang, bump up, mantel, and go to the top.  This route made the cover of Rock and Ice.  April 2013 Rock and Ice article. A variation of this route (Invitation to Dinner, FA Ken Nichols, Apr 2000) was led on gear that went left of the line to get gear in.


Orange Wall (AKA Big Wall)

Orange-Slacker 5.7, Red-Specter 5.6+
Commonly called the "big wall" because it is 85 feet tall.

Orange Wall (AKA Big Wall) (Left to Right)

Slacker 5.7. The left of the two routes up this 85 ft face goes up easy ground to an overhang.  Pull the overhang with no feet or go to the left and up an inside corner than to the top.  Route stays wet after rain.
Specter 5.6+**. The route goes up clean rock to an orange face.  Crux is one thin move then mantel and on to the top. An excellent beginner top-rope climb for gym climbers to introduce them to some exposure.  


Gully Wall

Red-Trad Direct 5.10. Green-Seeking Forgiveness, 5.10. Yellow-Lying By Omission, 5.10. Blue-Lickety Split 5.6.
Amber Kaltenstein on Lying By Omission (Photo by Dave Curry).

Annie Ragan on Seeking Forgiveness (Photo by Dave Curry).
Gully Wall (Left to Right)

Trad Direct*, 5.10, FA Brian Phillips Aug 2020. Two #1 Camalots are nice to sew it up.
Seeking Forgiveness*, 5.10. FA Dave Curry Aug 2020. Same finish as Trad Direct.
Lying By Omission***, 5.10. FA Amber Kaltenstein Aug 2020.
Lickety Split, 5.6, FA Brian Phillips Sep 2020. Eats nuts. 
North End


North End Partial Overview
Pink-Don't Bleed On Me. Yellow-Disneyworld. Green-Old Man on Crack. Red-Hand To Hand Combat. Green-Ross Choss. Blue-Something Dirty. Orange-End Game


Green -Under The Ferns, 5.10-. Red-Arete-Sted Development, 5.11+.
Blue-Airing It Out, 5.10+. Yellow-Blood On the Cracks, 5.10
Dave Curry leading Under The Ferns (Photo by Annie Ragan)


You're Under Arete 5.5


Red -Gneiss Jugs Direct, 5.8, Yellow-Gneiss Jugs, 5.8+. The Gardener, 5.8  


Yellow-Don't Bleed on Me, 5.11-. Red-Disney World, 5.7+
Abby Airoldi leading Disney World.
 

Green-Old Man on Crack 5.10/C2. Red-Hand to To Hand Combat, 5.9/5.10-.
Amber Kaltenstein doing the Hand to Hand traverse under the roof. (Photo by Dave Curry).


Green-Ross Choss, 5.10. Red-Something Dirty, 5.9. Orange-Game Over, 5.8
North End (Left to Right)

Under the Ferns***, 5.10-. FA Dave Curry Aug 2020. You'll want a #4 Camalot at the top. 
Arete-Sted Development, 5.11+. FA Chris Beargeron Oct 2023
Airing it Out**, 5.10+. FA Dave Curry Aug 2020.
Blood On the Cracks, 5.10. TR Dave Curry Aug 2023
You're Under Arete, 5.5. FA Brian Phillips Jun 2022.  A good beginner climb on jugs. 
Gneiss Jugs Direct , 5.8. FA: Brian Phillips April 2023. The original Gneiss Jugs, (5.8+ FA: Brian Phillips April 2014) was seldom done due to horrendous rope drag around the overhanging corner to the right.     
The Gardener**, 5.8. FA Dave Curry May 2014. Just to the right of Gneiss Jugs is a corner that goes up to a slight overhang. Follow that straight up. It then traverses right across a slab to a great stance on a pointed corner. Go straight up the broken corner to the top. About 85 feet.
Don't Bleed on Me***, 5.11-. FA Dave Curry Oct 2013. There is some sharp rock near the top hence the name.  About 85 feet.
Disney World***, 5.7+. FA: Brian Phillips Aug 2012. Follow the dihedral just to the right of Don’t Bleed on Me to a face with a thin horizontal crack.  Traverse following the crack and turn the corner.  Follow easy ground to face.  Go around the overhang to the left.  Go up a flake and head toward the arête.  Follow the arête to the top. About 90 feet.  Double .5 (purple) Camalots. Gear beta below.
Old Man on Crack 5.10/C2. It's 5.10 up to the roof crack then ??  I aided it and it is an open project.  See if you can free it.   
Hand To Hand Combat***, 5.9/5.10- TR Brian Phillips May 2005, FA Brian Phillips Jul 2020. Crux at bottom height dependent. Harder if short or not a crack climber. Clean gear on traverse if your belayer is going to top-rope.
Ross Choss, 5.10. FA Brian Phillips Nov 2020.  One hard move. Bring slings to extend. Clean gear on the way down if your belayer is going to top-rope this due to rope drag around corner.
Something Dirty*, 5.9. FA Brian Phillips Aug 2012.  About 50 feet.
Game Over*, 5.8. FA Dave Curry Jun 2022. Fun overhangs.

 Gear Beta Photos
The gear shown is what is possible not necessary.  I made it look like an aid climb just to show what you can get in for gear. Your experience at placing gear, comfort level, and gear placements may vary.  All numbers correspond to BD Camalots or, where identified, Wild Country Rocks. 


Devil's Lettuce
Disney World


Hand To Hand Combat