Directions
It is 70 miles/1hr 10min from Providence. Going
south on RT 95 take Exit 70 to Old Lyme. At the end of the exit
take a right on RT 1
north. Follow this for a few miles and take a right on Boggy Hole
Road. Follow this for a couple of miles and take a left on
Evergreen Drive. Follow this to the end and park at the
trailhead. Follow the map below to the cliffs marked with a
X. The Hidden Valley cliff requires bushwhacking over a small
hill to
find. Where the trail splits take the Perimeter Trail (left) and
go approximately 50 yards to a low point in the trail just before a wooden walkway. Bushwack
left at this point. There may or may not be a cairn on a rock
where you go left. If you go as far as the Sheeps Ledge (visable from
the trail) then you have gone too far.
Description and Routes
This is not
a destination crag but was developed for the enjoyment of locals
looking to get out after work or a short day in the winter sun. The
cliff faces south so it can be climbed when it is cold and sunny.
The first bolts are up fairly high to discourage tampering so you may
want a stick clip if you don't want to boulder up to the first clip.
All routes have chains and quicklinks for lowering at the anchor.
Please be discreet here and limit the number of cars and climbers.
History: This area was climbed at least as far back as the 1970s by
locals. If
this cliff, that I dubbed Hidden Valley, was climbed it was probably on
top-rope as there is only two routes here capable of taking adequate gear. The nearby Sheeps Ledge
was
climbed and probably led or aided as there are some old pitons there.
Routes left to right:
At Least the Falls Are Clean,
5.9+, FA Chris Beargeron May 2020, trad, no anchor. Mossy and slick
when wet. Easier and cleaner if you traverse into the crack from
the right at the start.
Aidan's Wall,
5.8+, TR Aidan Naktenis March 2020, FA Brian Phillips April
2020, 4 bolts to anchor.
Christine's
Tree,
5.9, FA Brian Phillips March 2020, 5 bolts to anchor.
Social Distancing,
5.9, FA Brian Phillips April 2020, 4 bolts to anchor
Love in the Time of Corona**,
5.11a, FA Brian Phillips April 2020, 5 bolts to anchor
Protection
Bring a minimum of 8 draws. Stick clip.
Hidden Valley
Wall Overview
Red-At Least the Falls Are Clean 5.9+ (trad), Green-Aidan's Wall 5.8+ Red-Christine's Tree 5.9,
Yellow-Social Distancing 5.9
Yellow-Social Distancing 5.9, Red- Love in the Time of Corona 5.11a